Thank you in advance for taking the time to read this, ive included a lot of detail, some may not be permanent, but bear with me!? :) Any responses will be appreciated!
Bike: 78 cb550k sohc 4 stroke/4 cylinder with 36k miles. its recent changes: Carbs cleaned and synched, valves adjusted, OEM rectifier, stock rust free gas tank, fuel filter, newly rewound stator, new yuasa battery.
1. My throttle seems to get stuck, or is forced to be constantly turned about a quarter of an inch in rotation counterclockwise from the right profile of the handlebars. I am usually have to twist the throttle a quarter inch clockwise when I come to a complete stop to reduce the rpms from 3000 to 1000 while idling. Having thought it may be a valve getting stuck ive tried revving the engine holding the clutch to see if the throttle goes all the way back on its own, but it doesn't. Do I need to tighten the throttle cable to pull the throttle all the way back to the expected/standard stationary position?
2. Im rarely able to get the bike into neutral when the bike is running. It slips past neutral, always going into first or second gear, until i kill the engine and it goes to neutral easily(kill switch or key while holding clutch in when i turn it off).
The clutch also slips often when riding, especially from first to second gear. The clutch usually doesnt grab first gear until its almost completely extended as well, which makes it frustratingly easy to release the clutch too far. The bike also jumps forward abruptly if the friction zone isnt handled gently when going into first from a stop. How can i adjust the friction zone? Ive been told it could be my clutch cable, or someone has said most likely the gear itself that has been worn down/dulled.
3. Squeaking coming from the front fork, which i can see the seals are leaking and have been leaking. The fork now squeaks over bumps and whatnot. Is there an easy way to supply more fuel? I dont have the tools to fix the fork seals. Id like to avoid paying a mechanic because ive heard it is possible to do yourself.
4. Final issue that worries me the most is that the engine becomes louder in any gear above 4000 rpms in a way that sounds similar to rattling or clanking. It usually only happens after ive been riding for an hour or so - sometimes continuing to make the sound even in lower rpms, just not as loud. But it is a distinct sound that occurs only after an 30 min to an hour of riding. I do live in arizona, where it is over 100 degrees during the day. The sound is less common at night.
What baffles me is that when I have taken the bike to a mechanic they tell me the bike has a great strong engine.
~Thanks~Motorcycle issues! Any advice? (long/extensive/detailed)?Throttle response, Honda's of that period used 2 cables counter twisting the throttles , replace both cables and the clutch. The neutral problem is really a NO PROBLEM there is no detent or grabbing point for neutral it is is just a spot between 1 %26amp;2, the slip is an adjustment issue, but since your cables are thirty years old and has been adjusted causing lots of kinks you're better off replacing the cables.
The fork seals just as old, and can be replaced with a manual and an Ice pick.Motorcycle issues! Any advice? (long/extensive/detailed)?1. Lubricate your throttle cable and return spring (if any). If this doesn't solve the problem, get a new cable.
2. Adjust your clutch cable properly. If it still acts up, replace your clutch plates.
3. Replace your fork seals and fill with the correct amount of fluid.
4. Drain your oil. Remove your oil filter and run the bike, pumping the old oil left in the engine out the filter line while pouring fresh oil into the oil tank. Once the fluid coming out of the motor comes out clear, shut the bike off, put on a new filter, and fill to specs with straight 50 or 60 weight oil from a bike shop. Your oil is thinning out in the AZ heat and losing viscosity. Change it like this religiously every 3k miles.Motorcycle issues! Any advice? (long/extensive/detailed)?Older bikes like this often have 'idiosyncrasies' that you can't get rid of now matter how hard you try. I have a 78 BMW that's getting crotchety in its old age. 8^) But then so am I.
The throttle problem could be the cable is too loose. It could be the return spring is stretched and no longer pulling the cable back to 'home' position. Check it out, look at the spring and you can probably see.
The clutch problem sounds like a cable adjustment too. Sounds like the clutch is not closing all the way or opening all the way. You might need a new clutch.
Fork seals are a common problem with old Hondas. I'm pretty sure you can still get the seals. Replacing them is something you can do yourself. It's a pain in the neck, but you will learn a lot about the forks in the process. If you don't replace them, you'll wear out the surfaces, and then even new seals won't help.
The last issue sounds to me like valves need adjusting. But you say that's already done, so it can't be that. It might be the cam chain, either the tension needs to be adjusted (easy to do) or it needs to be replaces (not so easy, but still doable).
My Beemer makes lots of intermittent rattling/clanking noises. But my mechanic says nothing is wrong, and it's been making those noises for about 30k miles now. So I wear a pair of foam earplugs and I don't hear them. 8^)Motorcycle issues! Any advice? (long/extensive/detailed)?Ahhh...the beauty of a 30 year old bike!
I too own a 78 550k, a 75 550f and an 02 Harley SuperGlide. That aside...
1) Throttle cables need adjustment and return spring may be shot.
2) Adjust clutch cable or clutch needs replacement.
3) You could try using a heavier weight fork oil but I think that'll only provide a temporary solution. In the long run, it may make the seals worse. You should probably just bite the bullet and replace them.
4) Hmmm, this one puzzles me a bit. Perhaps your oil pick up tube is restricted and not able to pump enough oil to the top end. Valve adjustment (oops, you already did that, maybe done incorrectly or loosened) or timing chain could be another cause. What weight oil are you running? I suppose if you're running 10-40, in your heat you could go to 20-50 without too much problem. But again, the heavier weight oil is going to put greater stress on gaskets and seals. Particularly those that may already be compromised.
The engine can still be considered %26quot;strong%26quot; yet still have the symptoms/problems you've described.
Try www.sohc4.com. Its a forum for bikes like ours.
Good Luck!
EDIT: Enjoy the sohc forum.
I guess some HD basher gave me a thumbs down for owning a Harley. Oh well. Or they're just jealous I own 3 bikes. To add to the jealousy factor, I also own a 2009 Pontiac G8 GT (rockin muscle car!) and a 2000 Toyota 4Runner SR5 to take me to the mountains to ski in the winter. Next year I'm adding a Cobalt 240 to the stable. One guy, five (soon to be six) vehicles.
Life is good!Motorcycle issues! Any advice? (long/extensive/detailed)?lots of good advice....
have a look here.. M/C mechanic online.. tells you how to do lots of stuff on your bike.. including fork seals..
http://www.dansmc.com/MC_repaircourse.ht
%26amp; you can get a manual for free here.. download from honda..
http://hondatech.info/downloads/Moto/
Wednesday, November 24, 2010
Price check please~!?
So i bought a 78 cb550 k 4 that has a great engine, 36kmiles, i had the carbs: rebuilt/synched, i found a brand new gas tank for it(yes brand new!! with a nicepaint job :)) ) gas tank and installed it, a new fuel filter, clubman handlebars, tune up, oil change, new battery, new rectifier, and had the stator rewound. Stock exhaust in near perfect condition, original owners manual and tool kit with all the pieces to the kit. Tires have medium wear, and the fork seals are leaking a tiny tiny bit. I Have receipts for everything. clean and clear title.
Was planning on keeping it really, especially because its now ready to ride, but stuff happens. It looks really nice, its a shame to let it go... how much would be suitableto ask for this bike? 2500? i wish. lol.Price check please~!?What do we look like the grocery story where cashiers call out %26quot;I need a price check please%26quot;?
If you paid $475 for a stator, you got ripped. There are better aftermarket units made for those bikes at half the cost. And by the way-on japanese bikes the rotor is always inside the stator-that is how the juice is produced on the bike-rotor %26quot;rotating%26quot; inside the stator (stationary).
Since you apparently know how to use the computer, you could have searched for your answer on someplace like say kelly blue book or even ebaymotors to see what these bikes go for.Price check please~!?lol, best and worst answer. Do you feel better about yourself? So much angst and entitlement seeping through those words! Get over yourself, or just your insecurities, i think the former just follows through automatically when completing the latter. Simmering in dumb sauce til al dente.
The bike unlessit has provenance is only worth 1200 if in excellent condition and 800 if with years ticket and tested for the road..
Sorry.Price check please~!?Your probably only gonna get 1500-2000. I would post it on ebay with the reserve of what you want. This way you get what you want plus you might get more if someone wants it bad enough.
Was planning on keeping it really, especially because its now ready to ride, but stuff happens. It looks really nice, its a shame to let it go... how much would be suitableto ask for this bike? 2500? i wish. lol.Price check please~!?What do we look like the grocery story where cashiers call out %26quot;I need a price check please%26quot;?
If you paid $475 for a stator, you got ripped. There are better aftermarket units made for those bikes at half the cost. And by the way-on japanese bikes the rotor is always inside the stator-that is how the juice is produced on the bike-rotor %26quot;rotating%26quot; inside the stator (stationary).
Since you apparently know how to use the computer, you could have searched for your answer on someplace like say kelly blue book or even ebaymotors to see what these bikes go for.Price check please~!?lol, best and worst answer. Do you feel better about yourself? So much angst and entitlement seeping through those words! Get over yourself, or just your insecurities, i think the former just follows through automatically when completing the latter. Simmering in dumb sauce til al dente.
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Price check please~!?And yes im sure an aftermarket part is better than a brand new freshly wound stator? or equal to? Why are so many motorcycle mechanics dbags?Report Abuse
Price check please~!?I'd say $1,500 to $1,800. All depends what someone is willing to pay. Last I knew though these bikes are becoming more collectable. Advertise it on Craigs list for $2,000. Good LuckPrice check please~!?all that you have done means nothing as it would just be classed as routine maintainance..and repair.The bike unlessit has provenance is only worth 1200 if in excellent condition and 800 if with years ticket and tested for the road..
Sorry.Price check please~!?Your probably only gonna get 1500-2000. I would post it on ebay with the reserve of what you want. This way you get what you want plus you might get more if someone wants it bad enough.
Front forks on a kx 250?
does anyone know how to change the seals in inverted shocks on the front of this bike? I need to have a detailed answer ie.,a website that describes it or a step by step answer please i am a mechanic and am pretty sure i'll understand any answers ,please serious answers not no minds.with the get a shop etc....Front forks on a kx 250?The process is a very complex set of procedures.
Bleeding the air out before re-assembly.
Fork oil level (not amount of oil).
Spend the money and buy a shop manual if you want to do it right.
Every manufacturer, model and year of each model, use a different procedure.
This is for everyone that reads this. Anyone attempting to work on their own vehicle should own a shop manual. You've invested so much time and money on your precious machine, why trust answers you get from strangers on message boards.
http://www.motocom.com/motorcycles/
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Bleeding the air out before re-assembly.
Fork oil level (not amount of oil).
Spend the money and buy a shop manual if you want to do it right.
Every manufacturer, model and year of each model, use a different procedure.
This is for everyone that reads this. Anyone attempting to work on their own vehicle should own a shop manual. You've invested so much time and money on your precious machine, why trust answers you get from strangers on message boards.
http://www.motocom.com/motorcycles/
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How long will this take to do in a motorcycle shop?
Change the rear tire bearings and seal the forks, i need it done by this weekend?How long will this take to do in a motorcycle shop?This could be easily done in a few hours time, but most places do this kind of work on a first come first serve basis, so I guess it would depend on how backed up they are, and how quick then can get to it.How long will this take to do in a motorcycle shop?bearings shouldn't take more than an hour and forks can be done in 2-3 hoursHow long will this take to do in a motorcycle shop?about 4 hours but you will get charged the flat rate.Flat rate is whatever the book sais it is.In other words if the factory manual sais its a 3 hour job you get charged 3 hours.How long will this take to do in a motorcycle shop?choppy,you really have to learn how to spell simple words like SAYS.lol
Harley owners - mantainance question?
How vital is the 20,000 mile fork oil change?
I never changed a seal on my previous bikes and all seemed fine. Maintainance schedule calls for disassemble forks, drain, refill and reinstall. My 20 K has been rough, probably equal to 40k on most. I see no visible problems, everything still feels fine. Warm weather is back. I want to ride, not wrench. So, how important is it? The 2 year warranty is almost up, I'm not worried about voiding it. I'm gonna kill the extended warranty anyway. Who needs it with a bike that doesn't break?Harley owners - mantainance question?I change my fork oils every year. It's not that hard to do and it gives you the opportunity to check out the condition of the forks by looking for grime, metal shavings, rubber pieces, pieces of seals. I change all my fluids every year in the springtime I just got done draining and flushing my front and rear brakes and rebuilt the calipers on the rear as they were showing some signs of wear. It is better to do the maintenance when you can instead of waiting until it leaves you stranded.Harley owners - mantainance question?I'm well past the 20K mark and I never changed mine. My brother is probably near the 50K mark and I'm sure he hasn't changed his (he's not big on that whole maintenance thng). I've never changed the fork oil on any of my motorcycles and never had a problem.
Now you got me thinking I should change my fork oil. Dammit.Harley owners - mantainance question?When was the last time you changed the fork oil on your other bike? If it ever was changed.
Notice any difference?
If you plan on changing it, at least you have another bike to ride.Harley owners - mantainance question?I actually ignore the mileage.
I do it in the winter time when it's too crappy out to ride.
(But here in SoCal, we don't have very many crappy days to wrench)Harley owners - mantainance question?If it ain't broke don't fix it. Take apart and change things sounds like an order for problems.Harley owners - mantainance question?the first time you change it theres nearly always a little metal or pasty looking stuff in the oil.
after that first time I think its a waste of of time %26amp; oil.
I usually manage to chip my paint somewhere anytime I mess with the front end. one time I put a sleeping bag on the tank so I wouldnt chip it. I forgot I had a 2 inch spacer on top of the spring, %26amp; when I loosened the cap nut it flew up %26amp; knocked a big chip out of the rear fender.
if your as clumsy as I am,%26quot;if it aint broke dont fix it%26quot; is a good motto.Harley owners - mantainance question?Now I see your question is for Harley owners which I am not but I want to throw my two cents in. I have owned a few sport bikes for a number of years now and have begun changing the fork oil at the recommend intervals for say the last 6 years. You would be surprised at the improvement of your suspension when you change it. Day and night. I believe it degrades slowly over time so you really don't notice it getting sloppy until you change it. When you do the front feels new again, a much better feel and it will bite a considerable amount better in a corner. Your call still since the bikes are intended for different purposes and I really have no idea how you like to ride but I wanted you to know that it is worth the time to do it. Its not really a hard job either on a Honda and I bet the job cannot be much different on a hog since the basic suspension is similar, I think I read they are even both Showa forks. It will pour someday and you could get it done in a half day if you are mechanically inclined and have the tools on hand easily. At the end of the day it is still your call since it will not just fail without giving you a warning, leaky seal, and even then I don't see why you could not continue riding it until you get the time to fix it.Harley owners - mantainance question?I'd change the fork oil %26amp; seals if that's what the manual is calling for. You will see an improvement in performance immediately. Pay close attention to how the seals fit, because they can be installed upside down believe it or not. If so they will leak and you'll have to tear them down again. If your local HD shop sucks try calling around to others within a days ride for service. I had to do that to get fork seals replaced and they honored the warranty even though I didn't buy the bike from them. good luck either wayHarley owners - mantainance question?if you're like me, you buy something all shiny and sparkley at least once a month and bolt it on. sooner or later you'll do something on the front end that will take a little time in the driveway, just do them then. not like it'll never get done, just not yet. mine's at 19500miles, and i'm not gonna sweat it cause i know i'll likely put a chrome lowers kit on sometime this summer anyways, i'll just do mine then.... and if i don't, i'm sure i will buy the lowers sometime through next winter, it'll get doneHarley owners - mantainance question?All Harley's need repairs and maintance, if the book calls for it, just take it to Harley and let them do it.
Oil does go bad after sometime, so just change it. If you are a heavy rider, then put 40 or 50 weight oil in them.
The purpose is to remove any metal shavings in the oil.how to cut hair product for tanning
I never changed a seal on my previous bikes and all seemed fine. Maintainance schedule calls for disassemble forks, drain, refill and reinstall. My 20 K has been rough, probably equal to 40k on most. I see no visible problems, everything still feels fine. Warm weather is back. I want to ride, not wrench. So, how important is it? The 2 year warranty is almost up, I'm not worried about voiding it. I'm gonna kill the extended warranty anyway. Who needs it with a bike that doesn't break?Harley owners - mantainance question?I change my fork oils every year. It's not that hard to do and it gives you the opportunity to check out the condition of the forks by looking for grime, metal shavings, rubber pieces, pieces of seals. I change all my fluids every year in the springtime I just got done draining and flushing my front and rear brakes and rebuilt the calipers on the rear as they were showing some signs of wear. It is better to do the maintenance when you can instead of waiting until it leaves you stranded.Harley owners - mantainance question?I'm well past the 20K mark and I never changed mine. My brother is probably near the 50K mark and I'm sure he hasn't changed his (he's not big on that whole maintenance thng). I've never changed the fork oil on any of my motorcycles and never had a problem.
Now you got me thinking I should change my fork oil. Dammit.Harley owners - mantainance question?When was the last time you changed the fork oil on your other bike? If it ever was changed.
Notice any difference?
If you plan on changing it, at least you have another bike to ride.Harley owners - mantainance question?I actually ignore the mileage.
I do it in the winter time when it's too crappy out to ride.
(But here in SoCal, we don't have very many crappy days to wrench)Harley owners - mantainance question?If it ain't broke don't fix it. Take apart and change things sounds like an order for problems.Harley owners - mantainance question?the first time you change it theres nearly always a little metal or pasty looking stuff in the oil.
after that first time I think its a waste of of time %26amp; oil.
I usually manage to chip my paint somewhere anytime I mess with the front end. one time I put a sleeping bag on the tank so I wouldnt chip it. I forgot I had a 2 inch spacer on top of the spring, %26amp; when I loosened the cap nut it flew up %26amp; knocked a big chip out of the rear fender.
if your as clumsy as I am,%26quot;if it aint broke dont fix it%26quot; is a good motto.Harley owners - mantainance question?Now I see your question is for Harley owners which I am not but I want to throw my two cents in. I have owned a few sport bikes for a number of years now and have begun changing the fork oil at the recommend intervals for say the last 6 years. You would be surprised at the improvement of your suspension when you change it. Day and night. I believe it degrades slowly over time so you really don't notice it getting sloppy until you change it. When you do the front feels new again, a much better feel and it will bite a considerable amount better in a corner. Your call still since the bikes are intended for different purposes and I really have no idea how you like to ride but I wanted you to know that it is worth the time to do it. Its not really a hard job either on a Honda and I bet the job cannot be much different on a hog since the basic suspension is similar, I think I read they are even both Showa forks. It will pour someday and you could get it done in a half day if you are mechanically inclined and have the tools on hand easily. At the end of the day it is still your call since it will not just fail without giving you a warning, leaky seal, and even then I don't see why you could not continue riding it until you get the time to fix it.Harley owners - mantainance question?I'd change the fork oil %26amp; seals if that's what the manual is calling for. You will see an improvement in performance immediately. Pay close attention to how the seals fit, because they can be installed upside down believe it or not. If so they will leak and you'll have to tear them down again. If your local HD shop sucks try calling around to others within a days ride for service. I had to do that to get fork seals replaced and they honored the warranty even though I didn't buy the bike from them. good luck either wayHarley owners - mantainance question?if you're like me, you buy something all shiny and sparkley at least once a month and bolt it on. sooner or later you'll do something on the front end that will take a little time in the driveway, just do them then. not like it'll never get done, just not yet. mine's at 19500miles, and i'm not gonna sweat it cause i know i'll likely put a chrome lowers kit on sometime this summer anyways, i'll just do mine then.... and if i don't, i'm sure i will buy the lowers sometime through next winter, it'll get doneHarley owners - mantainance question?All Harley's need repairs and maintance, if the book calls for it, just take it to Harley and let them do it.
Oil does go bad after sometime, so just change it. If you are a heavy rider, then put 40 or 50 weight oil in them.
The purpose is to remove any metal shavings in the oil.
How much fork fluid to put in?
I own a 2008 yz250f and I am replacing the seals on the forks and to do so you change the fluid also. What is the fluid capacity of one fork?
Thanks so muchHow much fork fluid to put in?Well, this is not for Dirt bikes.......second, look up an owners manual online...they usually have instructions for all of that stuff.How much fork fluid to put in?Ask in the motorcycle section, this is for bicycles.
Thanks so muchHow much fork fluid to put in?Well, this is not for Dirt bikes.......second, look up an owners manual online...they usually have instructions for all of that stuff.How much fork fluid to put in?Ask in the motorcycle section, this is for bicycles.
Yamaha diversion 900 xj forkseals help?
does any one no how to change the fork seals on yamaha diversion 900 xj and how hard are they to do ??
plus my mate says he has a pair of yamaha diversion 600 xj forks i just wonderd if they would be the same as mine as that would save me alot of time
thanks for any help ur able to give
mikeYamaha diversion 900 xj forkseals help?http://www.dansmc.com/MC_repaircourse.ht
tells you how to do the seals.. %26amp; lots moreYamaha diversion 900 xj forkseals help?Should be no harder to change than any other fork seals. The one thing you will need is a set of fork seal drivers.
Everyone tries (but fails) to use a hammer and a flat head screwdriver. That just ends up costing you a new set of seals.
You can buy a very good set of fork seal drivers for about $50 or so. And they work on many diameter forks. TR15-8123 is the pat number you need.
The 600 XJ seals are not compatible with the 900 though. Fork seals will run you about $40 by themselves, or $75 with the sweepers. Skip the sweepers, you just don't need to replace those unless the rubber is falling off of the forks..Yamaha diversion 900 xj forkseals help?Buy a Haynes manual that will show you how to do it.Yamaha diversion 900 xj forkseals help?For seal drivers I used an appropriate piece of PVC pipe. Worked great to seat the fork seals. For the procedure itself you really do need to invest the $30 or so for the Clymer's manual. Cheap insurance.Yamaha diversion 900 xj forkseals help?The 600 XJ forks should work fine. If you have never done fork seals before, it's not really a DIY job at home, unless you have the specialty tools needed, and a way to lift the front of the bike (like a stand or a jack) and some sort of insight of working on forks. It would be easier for you to use the 600 forks, or take yours into a shop and have them rebuilt there.
plus my mate says he has a pair of yamaha diversion 600 xj forks i just wonderd if they would be the same as mine as that would save me alot of time
thanks for any help ur able to give
mikeYamaha diversion 900 xj forkseals help?http://www.dansmc.com/MC_repaircourse.ht
tells you how to do the seals.. %26amp; lots moreYamaha diversion 900 xj forkseals help?Should be no harder to change than any other fork seals. The one thing you will need is a set of fork seal drivers.
Everyone tries (but fails) to use a hammer and a flat head screwdriver. That just ends up costing you a new set of seals.
You can buy a very good set of fork seal drivers for about $50 or so. And they work on many diameter forks. TR15-8123 is the pat number you need.
The 600 XJ seals are not compatible with the 900 though. Fork seals will run you about $40 by themselves, or $75 with the sweepers. Skip the sweepers, you just don't need to replace those unless the rubber is falling off of the forks..Yamaha diversion 900 xj forkseals help?Buy a Haynes manual that will show you how to do it.Yamaha diversion 900 xj forkseals help?For seal drivers I used an appropriate piece of PVC pipe. Worked great to seat the fork seals. For the procedure itself you really do need to invest the $30 or so for the Clymer's manual. Cheap insurance.Yamaha diversion 900 xj forkseals help?The 600 XJ forks should work fine. If you have never done fork seals before, it's not really a DIY job at home, unless you have the specialty tools needed, and a way to lift the front of the bike (like a stand or a jack) and some sort of insight of working on forks. It would be easier for you to use the 600 forks, or take yours into a shop and have them rebuilt there.
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